Planets rise and stars shoot overhead, while the Northern Lights send green and red flares across the ocean.
The rugged outcrop has become Europe’s first “Dark Sky Sanctuary”, one of only 17 places worldwide to receive international recognition for its extremely low light pollution and unparalleled stargazing.
The award puts Enlli on a par with atolls in the South Pacific and the isolated Gabriela Mistral observatory site in Chile.
The island is two miles (three kilometers) off the Welsh coast. A mountain blocks the glare from the mainland, so the only artificial light is the dim light of Dublin across the Irish Sea.
Enlli’s newfound fame has delighted the surrounding community. The island has only two permanent inhabitants, and both are on the moon.
Mari Huws, 30, and her partner Emyr Owen, 36, have spent four years living in Enlli – known in England as Bardsey – as resident wardens.
“We’re chuffed – it’s important for the island,” says Huws, who spearheaded the bid for designation by the International Dark Sky Association.
See also: 5 things you didn’t know about Africa’s favorite destination
Rush for the telescope
People on the Llyn peninsula in north-west Wales, about a four-hour drive from Cardiff, have long known the skies are special. Now, he has a chance to tell the world.
In the town of Pwllheli, an outdoor equipment store stocks heavy-duty telescopes.
“It put Ynys Enlli on the map,” said Caroline Jones, administrator for the Bardsey Island Trust, which manages the site.
“Now that the secret is out, people just want to know more.”
Jones had to fire up a response template to field a flood of emails from eager stargazers.
In the meantime, amateur astronomers have taken up positions at the highest point overlooking the island, hoping to get close.
As light pollution skyrockets in cities and towns around the world, clear skies are becoming rarer and more sought after.
But there is no chance that the tourists will beat Enlli.
Numbers are limited on the island, about half the size of New York’s Central Park, and 10 vacation cottages are fully booked this season.
See also: Top travel destinations for South Africans in 2023, according to experts
across the sea
Colin Evans is Enlli’s boatman. He loaded the small ferry with supplies for the islanders, put on the waders, and took the helm. It crosses the harsh winter.
The boat passed through turquoise blue bays and cliffs covered in bird droppings.
Enlli will be home to puffins, and nocturnal Manx shearwaters nest on the island, relying on the intense darkness for protection.
The status of the sanctuary is under constant review, and the wardens are doing everything they can to keep light pollution at bay.
They use sensors to switch off the light bulbs during the day, and the lighthouse is equipped with red LEDs that keep noise to a minimum.
Once a month, when the moon is in darkness, Huws wakes up in the middle of the night and points the gadget at the sky to measure the quality of the night sky.
Maintaining the sacred badge is important to protect the island’s nature and environment.
There are several other dark sky reserves in Wales, but stricter sanctuary status is being emphasized to increase awareness and long-term conservation.
The management’s trust has encouraged people on land to board and use warm lamps with covers to prevent diffused rays at night.
By spreading the word about the island’s skies, “we can protect something fragile and really valuable for the future”, says Huws.
“When the sky is dark enough, you can see the whole universe above your head.”
NOW Read: Space calendar March 2023: Astronomical events to watch