Of all the uniforms, none is more outlandish than the flight attendant’s swag. Part air police, part butler, the air stewardess must exercise a calm and composed authority while also performing major maneuvers such as serving 300 tikka masalas in the midst of high turbulence.
In the case of national airlines, the uniform should also have a distinction that tells you where you are from. This is often reflected in some “local” details: Emirates staff, for example, wear red hats with white scarves attached. In some cases, the airline takes a more sincere approach to national costumes, as seen in the sarong kebaya worn by Singapore Airlines’ female staff. Designed in 1968 by Pierre Balmain, the batik garment embodies the figure of altitudinal servility still known as the “Singapore Girl”.
This week, after a long consultation with more than 1,500 colleagues, and 50 workshops, a new fleet of costumes for British Airways flight staff has been unveiled. Upgraded for the first time in 20 years, the range has been designed by Savile Row Tailor Ozwald Boateng to offer staff a wider range of options. Men must wear a vest and choose from slim or wider pants, while the women’s uniform includes a choice of hijab and, in addition to the traditional skirt or pants, also a jumpsuit for all the action. It’s all accessorized by red details, the speedmarque logo has been incorporated into the jacquard, and the new air wave pattern is printed on the jaunty scarf.
Airline uniforms are a strange sartorial conundrum for modern designers, who must respond to competing interests and needs. The consultation process is neutral, much in the way of talent or fashion and the impetus is more in the consolidation of jazz. Things were simpler back in the day when hostesses were called “trolley dolls” and dressed like talismans – the heyday of the hostess uniform coincided with a brief period in the late 60’s when little outfits that sexualized professional women were still possible offered. as an “emancipated” style.
A Singapore Airlines flight attendant in 1972, wearing a sarong kebaya designed by Pierre Balmain. . . © Fairfax Media via Getty Images
. . . and BEA flight attendants in uniforms designed by Hardy Amies in 1967
Those were the days when Southwest stewards wore micro hot pants, hipster belts and knee boots, it was the era of Emilio Pucci-designed Braniff leotards. It was also a period of millinery experimentation when airline crews were expected to wear ridiculous hats: Pucci’s rig-out included an orb-like bubble helmet, only slightly sillier than a bowler hat in Pan Am. They still look great: icons of the “golden age” of travel, when everything was good and served in a first-class lounge.
British Airways, as befits a classic British institution, has always adopted a bolder, stiffer, slightly more pompous style. The first fashion designer to create a uniform for the British Overseas Airways Corporation was Maurice Helman, whose military-style skirt suits with large button detailing took inspiration from the world of haute couture. The outfit later looks fashionable, a nod to Christian Dior’s gray palette.
In the early 1960s, the Queen’s tailor Sir Norman Hartnell introduced navy suits. He was followed a few years later by Sir Hardy Amies, who donated the famous red cape. As a relatively inclusive employer, the brand quickly introduced kimonos and pants; hoods were there in the ’70s for Pakistani airline’s crew. Julien Macdonald’s revamp in 2003 tried to recapture its old glamour, but the airline preferred to write off its understated capabilities rather than follow modern trends.
The new British Airways uniform includes a jumpsuit. . .
. . . and a choice of hijab, both accessories with a jaunty red scarf
According to Boateng, the main consideration among the flight staff is that the clothing is resistant to various climates: the uniform is tested in temperatures of -18C. And with more than 90 percent of the clothing produced using recycled polyester, it’s even more sustainable – although I can’t imagine what it smells like after a quick return on a long-haul flight.
In short, the new uniforms aren’t very sexy, but then you won’t be a flight attendant in 2023: the basic salary for a BA flight attendant is £18,169 per year.
British Airways is owned by the Anglo-Spanish conglomerate International Airlines Group, but it still clings to its famous history as a symbol of national pride. The uniform is inclusive, practical, and shows a can-do attitude. Jumpsuit says saucy, but no-nonsense: with a peppy scarf and pintuck gathering, there is a distinct smack of Land Girl in the view.
And while I can’t imagine why anyone would ask for short sleeves, or any situation where they’d want to wear a vest, 50 workshops say I’m wrong. In my mind waistcoats less sleeves-and-get-the-work-done, and more Football management or evening cabaret. BA Boateng’s wardrobe offers an interesting reflection on brand messaging in a post-Brexit world: the impression of glamor that is missing from popular British holiday resorts.
jo.ellison@ft.com